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Sunday, March 23, 2008

DIY: Seat Removal

If you've had your TT for a while you will have noticed that a lot of dirt likes to get in between the seats and the center console. Among the dirt, you'll notice change from your pockets likes to migrate to this area after vigorous use of the accelerator, as do small screws from stuff you were dismantling, memory cards and other rather important things.

So with spring on the way why not take a day to clean out under your seats properly? They're not too difficult to remove.

The seats are bolted down with four bigass hex bolts that are torqued down really hard and are somewhat awkward to get at. I'll try and walk you through it without using pictures...since it's rather obvious. As always follow them at your own risk.

1. Disconnect your battery. This should keep you from getting an airbag light when you unplug your seats. Use proper procedure so as not to electrocute yourself or anything else.

2. Go to your seats armed with a flat head screwdriver. You'll notice that your seat rails have plastic caps over them up front. Pry them off...it's kinda tricky and probably the biggest PITA of the entire operation.

3. Next part is removing the bolts. This is how I did it, since I really didn't have many tools available...find an allen wrench that fits in the bolts. Try and loosen them...yeah it won't budge. So I grabbed my stock tire iron...mine's a hollow L-shaped piece of steel, not sure if everyone's is like that...and slid it over one end of the allen wrench, effectively multiplying my torque a few times. After finding the right angles, I got all of the bolts loose no problem.

4. Grab a flashlight and peer under the seat. There should be several electrical connectors under there for the seat heaters and airbag sensors etc. Disconnect them, they should unclip fairly easily.

5. Remove your seats. Make sure when you reinstall them to torque the bolts really tight and to reconnect all the wiring.

Friday, March 21, 2008

Wisdom: Keys

I mentioned keys briefly in my eBay post. However, the thread where I came up with the info popped up again on Vortex. Most notable are TREFTTY's words on the issue of replacing keys:


Honestly, and this is from experience. It is cheaper to just go to the dealership and have them make you a non FOB key and program it. It will cost you less then 150 dollars total. Then get yourself an aftermarket alarm (Viper, Python, Clifford) that is made by DEI. This should cost no more then 250 dollars installed. You should go with the Python 460hp. It will be perfect for a TT and you can use it to arm and disarm your factory alarm as well. I used the factory horn instead of the DEI Siren it just goes better with the cars style. This will give you two keys both with remotes and you can take a key off and take it into the water with you. You will have invested about 400 dollars this way. If you go to the dealer and get even one Keyfob remote you will have spent at least 350 dollars (And that would be a good deal) when it is said and done. I have heard of people paying over 500 dollars for the key, remote programming and immobilizer programming.

The best part about this way is that you dont have to worry about the keyfobs becoming decrepit. Those things get really messed up really quick. Also you will be able to go get a new remote for less then 50 dollars anytime you need one.

Just another option for you. Those keyfobs are just big bulky pieces of monkey **** anyway. Once you get over the cool switchblade thing, they are annoying as hell.


Rest of the thread here:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3747133

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